Jan., Brent Ware (2d),
Aborted Red Rocks trip - Gym climbing in Vegas,
J. Tree for a day - 3 10s on IRS wall + Coarse & Buggy (11a,L1F),
On C&B, made it to the final LB and then hung, dammit. Lower section
is a delicate calf-burning stem-a-thon.
Jan., AMC Ice class (2d),
Willy's slide - self arrest and belays, Frankenstein - TR IIIs & Ivs,
Feb., AMC Ice class (2d), Mt.
Willard - Followed IV, lead III, retreated on V, Huntington Ravine, Damnation,
sumitted wearing light poly pro in fine weather .
Where’s that dreadful Mt. Washington weather?
Feb., Cannon Cliff w. Guy
Seeley (1d + bivy), Black Dike (thin & warm), Led p1 (II), p2 (5.6 III+)
& p4 (5.6 III+), followed p3 (III+)
Mar., Mt. Washington,
Sahraoui Chaieb (1d + car bivy), Pinnacle Gully w. South Gully descent ,
(3am start, rain, fog & snow dn. by 10)
Mar., Mt. Washington, Guy
Seeley (1d) Pinnacle Gully w. South Gully descent ,
(4am start, 2hrs to base, beautiful day triggered slab avalanche above
Odell's right & went home) This
was our day to do all of the gullies but the avalanche
gave us pause.
Mar.,
N. Cascades, Alex Cronin (3d), Dragontail's
Triple Coulouir (full conditions), Two
full pitches of mixed climbing in frequent spindrift avalanches.
The next day we hiked out and had a fine day of shirt sleeve climbing
at Castle Rock (Mr. Clean-Catapult-scramble-Damnation- Midway Direct Direct)
(Lp1, 3, 5)
Mar., Rumnney, Kimberlee
Chestnut & Jill (1d), abandoned white toad (7) due to wetness, sweating
bullets (10b), scene of the crime (10b), space shuttle (9+), failed on
retrospade (11c)
Apr., Flume, Guy Seeley
(1d) Assorted TR IV/V+, disintegrating ice
May., Quincy Quarry, Paul
First (1d) A few leads & TRs 5.8 - 5.10+, incl ladder-line w/o
direct start
May, Cathedral, Paul First
(1d) Recompense (Lp2,4), Ventilator (Lp1)
Jun 13 Castle Rock w.
Marc Hammond (1d) Climbed Mr. Clean-Catapult-S. Face
Jello Tower etc.
Jul
5 Exit 38 & Mt. Si w. Alex Cronin (1d) Climbed a few sport
climbs on N. side of I-90 and then ran-walked Mt. Si in < 1.5hrs (no
packs).
Jul
11,12 w. Eli Holmes (2d) Methow Inspiration 4p 5.8 w. 20' of 5.9,
Two slabby pitches followed by two steeper pitches.
Scrambled up Last Chance on Sunday and scoped out some climbing
possibilities.
Jul 18 Darrington w. Dave
Lahaye, Eli & Karel (1d) climbed first three pitches of Giants Tears
(5.10R A0) Didn't finish the climb due to the late hour – dangit
– someday I’ll complete this bastard.
This climb should have a few bolts replaced - potential for death
fall on p1 rivets. Eli &
Karel were on Dreamer .
Jul 25 & 26 Rainier w. Alex
Cronin (2d) visited mom & then began climbing in the evening.
Climbed Kautz Glacier Route in under 23 hrs.
Decended in mid-afternoon w. much ice and rockfall down the chute at
camp hazard. Used Diamox for the
first time with semi-positive results.
Felt queasy at 11k before bivy but was much improved by mid morning and
had lots of energy above 14k.
Aug 2 Dragontail, solo (1d)
approached via Stuart Lake trailhead, climbed Serpentine Ridge onsight
and exited via Snow Creek. Made summit in < 5hrs.
Had to hike to bridge creek but got a ride from there.
Aug 15,16 Squamish w. Jill &
Dave Lahaye (2d) Hiked to Black Tusk on Sat and climbed Sparrow (8p 5.9
slab) on Sunday, finishing just before rain started.
Aug 22,23 Ingalls Lake & Peak
w. Mom, Jill and Alex Cronin (2d) Hiked in & camped on Sat. On Sun.,
hiked to lake w. group and then w. Alex soloed up SE. face of N. peak,
traversed S. and descended S. face of S. peak (both peaks were sub peaks of
the larger real summit to the S. which looked like a talus scramble.)
I believe we descended the classic route in the Nelson guide as there
were several parties on it.
Sep 12, 13 Leavenworth and
Enchantments with AC & Rob (2d) Climbed Castle Rock (again) on Sat.
to practice 3-climber technique w. third member on jumars or self-belay.
Smut-Brass Balls-Damnation. Led smut, AC led BB and Angel and I finished
on the usual slab. Self belayed the thin face between Angel and
Damnation, eventually retreating into Damnation at about 40'. Starting
at ~3am on Sunday, approached Prusik from Stuart Lake trailhead in 5+ hrs,
climbed s. face in 5 long pitches, incl. alt. 5.10 entry rt. of std. start.
Last pitch (crux) was very easy compared to the 5.9 OW which was very
strenuous but well protected. One of the best views ever.
Returned to the car at Stuart Lake trailhead by dark.
leads: AC 10, M 9, M 8, AC 9+, M 9
Sep 20 Exit 38 w. AC (1d) 6
sport climbs in 5.10+ range (local grades up to 5.12)
Sep 27 Jackson Wilderness w. Rob
(1d) Vesper N. Face (3p 5.8+ wet, mossy, poor pro & very loose)
We climbed the face to the left of the Nelson guide classic route.
Excellent views from the summit and scenic hike in. Took an early
left up a steep creek bed and had to retreat to main trail.
Oct 4 Tiger Mt. hike
w. Alex, Zander & Megan -- damp (1d)
Oct 11 Tooth W. Face w. Alex
& Erin. (1d) Wet, snowy & loose. Bursts up to 5.8 -
skipped steep 5.9+ section.
Oct 18
Vantage w. Rob (1d) climbed a 5.8 and 5 or 6 5.10s including at least two gear
routes in the sunshine area. Also climbed a loose 5.10 on a small
outcropping near the road - W or NW facing dihedral.
Oct 24 Granite Mt. w. Jill (1d)
Excellent training hike (~3.5+k ft) with good views down avalanche chute to
I-90. Some snow near top, lookout locked, nasty blisters, ended hike in
rain and had breakfast at Snoqualmie summit - yuck.
Oct 25 Snow Creek Wall w. Tom .
(1d) Tried to do Hyperspace again and was thwarted by time. Climbed
5.10d slab/crack to tree ledge, 5.11a right leaning crack to small roof, 5.9+
cracks (1.5 pitches) and 5.10c onto easy knob runout to meet up w. outer
space. finished at dusk and made it to the base by dark. Rescued
benighted couple in the talus.