Jan? w. Joachim, Attempt on Mt.
Adams, gear failure on J’s newly split board.
Bailed to ride Mt. Hood (2d)
March? w. Alan Diercks, 3 laps on
Mt. Si in 8 hrs (2/3 snow & slush) – brutal bodyache the following two
days. (1d)
March? w. Rob, Mt. St. Helens w.
snowboard descent (1d)
April w. Rob, Leavenworth, Condor
buttress (methamphetamine somethingerother…).
A well situated but grid bolted trad climb.
Bathtub dome (1d)
May w. Tom, Index, Sugar
Bear-Roger’s Corner à
Breakfast of Champions à
Beak-Beak-Beak (1d) (Sand bagged on p1 by TC L1F)
May w. Rob, Jesse, Karl, Orlando
and Dave, Charlotte Dome, King’s Canyon - a classic that probably doesn’t
see a crowd like this often. Dave
and I tried a direct line that was supposed to have a couple bolts per pitch (E.B
White) until it met the regular route. We
found no bolts and some heads up 5.8/9. The
upper parts were steep and easy. We
climbed the entire route in 12 pitches including some simulclimb stretches.
(3d)
May 26 (failed) and June 2
(success) with Rob, Index, Town Crier (5.8 A2 IV) – getting the system down
for Liberty Crack. We skipped the
5.8 chimney on pitch 3 for a bolted face variant that required a 5 or 6 hook
moves. On the next pitch, did a
direct variant moving through a small roof and straight into the desired
crack, avoiding the short pendulum.
(2d)
June 4 with Alan, Granite Mt hike
after work. Ran into snow at
about 4000’, turned back at 5200’ when the low tops and shorts started
were getting a little cool. (1d)
June 9 with Orlando, Squamish,
Apron Strings(?)]
Cruel Shoes ] Split Pillar]Sword of Damocles. An excellent
day and climb. The first 6
pitches went very well but after the pillar my arms were worked.
The Sword finished me and I had to aid the last few moves.
We finished the day with a salmon buffet and a long drive back to
Seattle. (1d)
June 12 and/or 19 with Alan –
Mt. Si (2d)
June 30 with Rob – Colchuck E.
Ridge, Dragontail W. Ridge, Prussik W. Ridge.
A very long day trip from Seattle.
Probably 20 miles and 8k vertical.
Fun 3rd class on D’tail.
Rob’s
shutterfly pictures (1d)
July 12-14 with Rob – Boston
Basin circuit – Sahale Arm, Boston Peak via S. Ridge/Face, Quien Sabe
descent, Sharkfin Tower via E. Ridge, Forbidden traverse E. Ridge
]W. Ridge descent. Pretty relaxing
pace @ 50 hours car-car. Planned
to do the Forbidden-Torment traverse but Rob’s knee was sketchy
and we were worried about tacking on an additional mile (!!) of 5th
class. Rob’s
shutterfly pictures (3d)
July 20-21 with Rob, Jesse &
Jason – Slesse NE Buttress. Climbed
in two car/rope teams. I teamed
with Rob. This was probably the
best alpine rock climb I’ve been on. Excellent
views and hero roofs. Made giant
bivy ledge in 9 hours from trailhead, summit in 3.5 hours from ledge, descent
in 5.5 hours. Crux was a
single pitch bypass from glacier to ramp.
Simulclimbed all but 3 pitches of the route.
Some confusion about car positioning – we could have shaved 1.5 miles
off of exit with better knowledge. Rob’s
shutterfly pictures (2d)
Aug 17-18 with Rob – Vasiliki
ridge, Juno and Bacchus towers. FA
of Compound Fracture on E. Face of Bacchus (III 5.10- loose),
Clean Break (V 5.10 superb). Approached
on first day and dumped bivy gear on flat rock below Bacchus made FA.. Climbed
Clean Break the next day – superb quality climb.
Interesting crack, face and friction climbing keep you on your toes for
most of the climb. (2d)
August 25, Mt. Si quick lap
including 5.6 variant on haystack (1d)
August 26, Beacon Rock, SE Corner
(5.7) Started left of std rt. and ended w. leftward traversing variant at top (’shwacking).
~45 min car-car.
(1d)