Charlotte Dome - May 2002

We were originally planning on climbing Bear Creek Spire but the road was closed over Tioga Pass so we looked around and spotted Charlotte Dome.  I was a bit nervous at giving it a try since it was a 50 Classic.  http://naclassics.com/climbs/charlott/beta.htm

I pictured hordes all over the route especially since it is only 5.7.  Mark joined Jesse and I and also invited Orlando, Karl, Dave.  That made 3 parties of 2 which ended up working out great.  We didn't see any other parties the entire time we were up there.  We entered through the west side and made the long hike in which really was uneventful and didn't seem too long.  The beginning section starts out mellow and then climbs a steep hill gaining at least 2000 feet in 2 or 3 miles.

   Hiking in from the Road End in Kings Canyon

   View of the lower valley from the top of the "big hill"

Once on top of the "Big Hill" you follow a really nice stream (Bubbs Creek) for awhile until you come to Charlotte creek and then start climbing up again following a climber path.  Here is where you get your first breathtaking glimpses of Charlotte Dome!

  First view of the Dome before the hump up the climbers trail

We set up camp in a established spot along side Charlotte Creek with a great head on view of the climb.

  Head on view of C-dome and the Classic S. Face climbing route.

The next morning we awoke to typical Sierra skies... not a cloud to be seen.  Mark was going to wait for Karl, Orlando and Dave who had made a late night approach and camped somewhere below where we were.  Jesse and I fought through Manzanita and other unsavory brush to reach some granite slabs and then made our way towards the base of the route pictured here... 

  Start of the climbing

In actuality we were looking for the start of the EB White route (a 5.9 variation that meets the Classic route higher up).  We never found the start to that and still don't know whether or not we found the standard start either since the climbing seemed harder than 4th class but it was all good with gear and you could wander wherever you wanted to go.  I started off and we simul climbed for a ways until I got to a bolted belay which I surmise now must have been the Charlottes web route.  From here we started traversing to the climbers right for a long ways until we were at the obvious dihedral which led to the upper furrows section of the climb.  We were using a 70m rope which was helpful more than once to reach comfy belays.

  Jesse about 4 pitches up      Belay at about halfway point

  Awesome crack at the start of the Dihedral pitch... so steep and only 5.7!

We climbed through the Dihedral section and up to a belay in a crack system that petered out. From here it looked like some face climbing.  I grabbed the rack and went.  I got in a marginal TCU about 30 feet up from the belay and didn't like the featureless terrain above me.  At this point Mark and Dave pulled over a lip to my right after also attempting to find the EB White route.  The ended up climbing some run out face to get to where we were.  I traversed left at Jesses' urging looking towards the buttress "crest."  It was a exciting 5.8ish traverse for 50 or 60 feet with no gear before I could get in a good #2 camalot.  I was also getting some monster rope drag due to the TCU placement.   Mark was continuing straight up and pulled the piece for me, thanks Mark!

   Mark after pulling the TCU for me.  That might be it in his mouth!

Here is the view from about where I placed my good piece.  It is pretty steep but with great features.

  3/4 way up the route.

Climbing toward the Furrows

From here the climbing ascended the "furrows" on incredible 5.6 climbing up to a giant ledge.  As I left the belay I saw Karl and Orlando pulling up over the lip a rope length or two below me.

  Huge Ledge

Here we found Mark and Dave kicking it on a huge ledge.  I continued up a steep ominous looking headwall.  The climbing turned out to be some of the finest of the day.  Imagine a vertical ladder with gear wherever you wanted it.  Probably the best 5.5 pitch I have ever done.  I set up a belay on a exposed ridge crest and brought Jesse up.  Here is Jesse toping out on this pitch, the second to last.

  Jesse high on the route

One last pitch led to the summit where we basked in the sun and waited for the others. 

Last Pitch of the day

I signed the summit register and found that we were the first to sign since the previous October when Peter Croft had soloed the route.

  Peter Crofts Autograph in the register

  Robert and Jesse self portrait on summit slightly out of focus

We lounged around in the sun on the summit waiting for the others and then descended with a patch of snow here and there.  We admired the horizons with granite peaks as far as the eye could see.

  Granite everywhere!

The next morning we made the hike out under a sweltering sun.   At the car we had some Negro Modelo with limes after cooling them off in a stream...  I nice way to end the trip.

Rob, Jesse and Mark enjoying the after climb refreshments.