Disclaimer:

            Events in this journal have some basis in fact but most of this was reconstructed years after the fact.  There are numerous omissions and possibly some fabrications.   Dates are especially likely to be in error.   Finally, not all of the activities mentioned here are recommended.

Legend:

L=lead, F=fall, TR=top rope, P=pitch, D=day

Trips:

1990

Summer,  Beacon Rock w. Jim Yoder,  (two trips?) SW Corner (solo 4x) Dod's Jam (TR p1, Lp1 & 3)

Summer, Dave Daniels, Dave Brayer, Index, Several trips(?) Godzilla, City Park (2^nd pitch), Zoom, Little Jupiter (TR,F), Model Worker (F), Princely Amb. Great Northern Slab, Sickle Crack, Libra Crack

 Thanksgiving & Christmas, Karl Runde & Jason Cleveland, Joshua Tree,  Headstone Rock, Cryptic (solo),  Dogleg, Double Cross, Mama & Papa Woolsey (L), Buissonier, Illusion Dweller w. KR (Lp2), Sidewinder (L),  Bearded Cabbages (TR), Hobbit Roof (TR), The Bong

 1991

Jan-Mar., Vic Dewees, J.T. & Baja, J.T., Super Monster Killer (Big lead fall), Headstone Rock, Bouldering, assorted climbs,   Sierra San Francisco, pinnacle, circuit & traverse of canyon (solo),   Lands End, Cabo San Lucas, 1 trad and several sport leads,   Canon Tajo, Bouldering & several moderate leads

 Thanksgiving, Karl Runde & Jason Cleaveland, Joshua Tree,  Figures on a Landscape w. JC, (Lp1,2), Solid Gold, Full Frontal Nudity on the Comic Book, Out on a Limb

 Spring, Patrick Myric, Squamish, Cruel Shoes (Lead all pitches but #5), 5.10 multi-pitch slab on apron

 Summer, Eric Mohler, Leavenworth, Outer Space (solo), Mr. Clean-Bone-Angel-etc (solo), Some stuff in Icicle Creek Canyon (Z-crack?), Givler's Crack (solo),   Bouldering

 Summer, Eric Mohler, Squamish,  Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall ending at Bellygood Ledge,   Neat & Cool (solo), Asst’d climbs

 Summer, ??, Beacon Rock, 5.10 & 5.11 near Dod's Jam

 Summer, Patrick Myric & others, Smith Rocks, Overboard (L), Zebra Seam (TR), Sparticus 12a (L1F?)

 Fall, Alone, Index & Castle Rock (3d) Thin Fingers (followed Fred), Model Worker (L), Mr. Clean-Catapult-SW Face Jello Tower-etc (solo)    

 Fall, Jill, Index, Little Jupiter 11d (L), Big Science 12a (L1F), Cunning Stunt 11a (L)

 Fall, Jill, Smith Rocks

 Nov., Jill, Owens River Gorge, Numerous 5.10s, DWP 11c (L1F)

1992

?

1993

 Karl Runde & Co., Canon Tajo,   anon. 5.8-10 cracks & face

 Mar., Karl, Owens River Gorge & East Side (2d),  Several 5.10s in the Gorge, bolted 5.11 in the foothills (L1F?)

 Fall?, Jill, Needles, CA,  Short leads and TRs

 Fall?, Orlando Warren, Tahquitz (1d),  Super Pooper (all leads?) – This was the first 5.10a in the tahquitz decimal system I believe

1994

 July, Jill & Orlando Warren, Owens River Gorge (2d), DWP 11c (TR), numerous 5.10s, Short But Sweet 10a (solo)

?

1995

 Spring?, Greg Ebert, Squamish (1d), Cruel Shoes (Lp1,2), Clean Crack (TR), Light of Day (L)

 Summer?, Sean Courage, Washington Pass (1d),  SW Face, Kangaroo Temple 5.8

 Summer, Jill, Index. Sagitarius to roof (L), Iron Horse to flake, Model Worker (complete) 11b – exciting (L)

 Fall, Karl Runde, Joshua Tree (2d), Walk on the Wild Side, Fisticuffs

 Sept., Bob Braun & Steve X, Washington Pass, (1d),  Direct E. Buttress South Early Winter Spire 10+, L p3,5,6

 Sept., Ben Moore, Washington Pass (1d),  Tooth & Claw on Lexington Spire 12a (all Leads 2F at crux)

 Fall, Sean Courage, Leavenworth (1d), Mr. Clean-Bone-MF Overhang 11-ish

 Fall, Bob Braun & Dave Mohler, Little Si (1d),  World Wall I, 5.9,10,11 (L)

 Sept., Jill & Karl Runde, Washington Pass (Wet) (1d),  South Arete of South Early Winter Spire   5.6

 Nov.?, Ben Moore, Mt. Diablo & Lovers Leap (2d), Traveler Buttress, The Line at Lovers Leap – The first of these is a “50 classics” but the Line is better,  Something Thin and 5.11(?) on the Sugar loaf  , Betty's Beard (TR) at Mt. Diablo

 Dec., Joachim Stadel, Mt. Baker (1d),  Failed 24 hr. attempt (Coleman Glacier?), Starting at 11pm, we wallowed to our high point of under 8k by 2pm. J lost his snowboard on descent and we got lost chasing it in the mashed potatoes.  This trip, without a doubt, was the most work for the least return of any climbing venture I’ve been on.

1996

March, Ben Moore, Mt. Diablo (1d),  5.10/11 Face (L), Dirt Crack (aid)

 March, Joachim Stadel, Mt. Rainier (1d),  Failed 24 hr. attempt (Cadaver Gap to 12+k) 6pm start, back by noon – clear but quite cold, no bivy gear.  Spectacular views of St. Helens, Adams and Hood in the full moon on the way up.

 April, Scott Hopkins, Little Si (1d),  World Wall I, 5.9,10,11 (L)

 April, Greg May, Snow Creek Wall (1d), Iconoclast-Jet Stream Delivery-Outer Space (wanted to do hyperspace but chickened out as we didn’t have the big gear or huevos)

 April, Jill & Ben Moore, Joshua Tree, Grand Canyon (4d),  The GC RT was 45+ mi & 11k ft. in 28 hrs,  Left Ski Track 11a (L), Quick Draw McGraw, Falcon & the Snowman (L), CS Special (L), Out on a Limb 10c (L), Big Mo 11a (TR 5+ laps),  Huevos 11d? (L4F), Clean-n-Jerk (TR)

 May, Stephan, Index (1d), Davis-Holland (Lp1,3), lost on Lovin' Arms  (5.11 dihedral variation on p1)

 May, Mike Geller, Index (Damp) (1d), Godzilla-City Park(L)-Slow Children (slimy)

 May 1996, Dave Mohler, Midnight Rock (1d), Yellow Bird(L), Wild Traverse, Easter Crack(Lp2), ROTC (TR,F),  ROTC would be easy enough to lead w. a little endurance.  Try again.

 June, Ben Moore, Yosemite (2d),  NW Face of Half Dome, 5 pitches (Lp1,3,4,5).  Bad trip – hot, jet lagged and poor logistics.  Chose a pack too heavy to climb in but didn’t have a good hauling system, poor teamwork.  Bouldering at Camp 4

 June, Joachim Stadel, Ben Moore & Co., Mt. Rainier (2d),   Disappointment Cleaver w. JS (3:40 to Muir,  ~5hr to summit)   Ben & Co abandoned climb at cleaver.

 July, Craig Rankin & 2 Steves, Darington (1d), Giants Tears w. Steve Thompson, all leads.  Didn't climb last few pitches of dreamer due to hungover partner drinking all the water and then wimping out.

 Aug., Craig Rankin, Index (1d), Davis Holland-Lovin' Arms (L p1,3,5,6)

 Sept., Alex Cronin, N. Cascades (4d), Direct N. Ridge Mt. Stuart, simulclimb except gendarme pitch – 6 hours. Took fall on recon of Sherpa glacier descent and cracked rib.    Colchuck Balanced Rock (aided 5.11 traverse and 5.12 roof), horrible descent directly to lake down exceptionally loose avalanche chute.

 Fall, Scott Hopkins, Exit 38 (1d) 5.9 & 10s

1997

 Jan., Alex Cronin, Joachim Stadel, Snoqualmie Pass (1d),  SW Face Mt. Guye to S. Rib, incomplete (first vertical ice!)

 Feb., Tom Coe & Steve Schrader, Index (2d),  Princely Ambition(TR)-Dr. Sniff(11a,L)-Newest Industry(11a,L) , Japanese Gardens (11c) p1,full -> Dog's Life (11c) (TR dark),    Friendly Fire (TR), Engines of Archimedes (12a,L3F), Tango for Two (TR partial in dark), Terminal Preppie 11c (L1F,dangit I wanted the onsight)

 Feb., Scotty Hopkins, Index (Wet) (1d), Rogers Corner (Lp1), Breakfast of Champions 10a (L&TR),  Marginal Karma (TR, bleh)

 Feb., Jill & Tom Coe, Smith Rocks (2d), Moondance (11c,L), Latest Rage (12b,L3F), Watt's Tots (12a,L2F), Zebra Seam-Zebra (Lp2), Karate Crack, Latin Lover (12a,L1F),   Monkey Space (Lp1,3) yow – the best route I’ve done at smith.  Excellent exposure.

 Mar., Tom Coe, Vantage (1d), Sunshine Wall?, 3 crack and 3 face pitches from 10b to 11a.

 Apr., Steve Shrader, Joachim Stadel, Mt. Index (1d), Attempt on N. Face, too warm.  Lead first two pitches and then retreated under bombardment.

 Apr., Steve Shrader, Leavenworth (1d), Rattlesnake (3 5.10-11+ sport leads), Piton Tower (followed), Face-to-face w. genuine rattlesnake on the approach.  Good place to revisit.

 May.?, Jim MaGee, Yosemite, (6d),  Zodiac, Lp1,3, 5, 6, 9, 11, 13, 15, 16 .  Spent way too long on this route.

 Jun?, Joachim Stadel, Mt. Rainier (2d), Kautz Glacier + headwall, descended DC to car in 3hrs, total 23 hrs.  Fell asleep on the summit while trying to eat – rudely awoken by J’s snoring.

 Oct., Jill, Rumney NH (1d),  all onsights: holderness school arete (10b), bonehead roof (10c),  supreme onion sacrifice (11a), captain fingers (11c), flying hawaiian (11b), Waimea (10d)

 Oct., Charles Paxson and Jason Jones, Cathedral Ledges NH (1d), Book of Solemnity (10a) w. 5.9 crack finish,  thin face on lower ledges (9,11c,L1F)   Caught major air (30')  when I fell only 6' runnout! Book was gorgeous, spectacular foliage views, etc.  Watch the leaves – treacherous!

 Nov., Karl Runde, Jason Cleveland and Orlando Warren, Joshua Tree (2d), Bouldering, Lower Left Ski Track (11a L), Grit Roof (10d OW, L), misc 5.10 & Spider Line (11c defiled)  -  We tag teamed this most of an afternoon. Nearly made the latter but ran out of juice.  The high point was the tri tip dinner and the very strenuous lead of GR a 5.10 testpiece.

Dec., Guy Seeley (2d), Huntington Ravine, Central Gully II low visibility, high winds & cold.  Very surprised by the short length of the climb. Frankenstein, Waterfall III L, thin at top, III+ maybe?  

1998

 Jan., Brent Ware (2d), Aborted Red Rocks trip - Gym climbing in Vegas,  J. Tree for a day - 3 10s on IRS wall + Coarse & Buggy (11a,L1F), On C&B, made it to the final LB and then hung, dammit.  Lower section is a delicate calf-burning stem-a-thon.

 Jan., AMC Ice class (2d), Willy's slide - self arrest and belays, Frankenstein - TR IIIs & Ivs,

Feb., AMC Ice class (2d), Mt. Willard - Followed IV, lead III, retreated on V, Huntington Ravine, Damnation, sumitted wearing light poly pro in fine weather .  Where’s that dreadful Mt. Washington weather?

 Feb., Cannon Cliff w. Guy Seeley (1d + bivy), Black Dike (thin & warm), Led p1 (II), p2 (5.6 III+) & p4 (5.6 III+), followed p3 (III+)

 Mar., Mt. Washington, Sahraoui Chaieb (1d + car bivy), Pinnacle Gully w. South Gully descent ,  (3am start, rain, fog & snow dn. by 10)

 Mar., Mt. Washington, Guy Seeley (1d) Pinnacle Gully w. South Gully descent ,  (4am start, 2hrs to base, beautiful day triggered slab avalanche above Odell's right & went home)  This was our day to do all of the gullies but the avalanche  gave us pause.

Mar., N. Cascades, Alex Cronin (3d),  Dragontail's Triple Coulouir (full conditions),  Two full pitches of mixed climbing in frequent spindrift avalanches.   The next day we hiked out and had a fine day of shirt sleeve climbing at Castle Rock (Mr. Clean-Catapult-scramble-Damnation- Midway Direct Direct) (Lp1, 3, 5)

 Mar., Rumnney, Kimberlee Chestnut & Jill (1d), abandoned white toad (7) due to wetness, sweating bullets (10b), scene of the crime (10b), space shuttle (9+), failed on retrospade (11c)

 Apr., Flume, Guy Seeley (1d)  Assorted TR IV/V+, disintegrating ice

 May., Quincy Quarry, Paul First (1d)  A few leads & TRs 5.8 - 5.10+, incl ladder-line w/o direct start

 May, Cathedral, Paul First (1d) Recompense (Lp2,4), Ventilator (Lp1)

 Jun 13  Castle Rock w. Mark Hammond (1d) Climbed Mr. Clean-Catapult-S. Face Jello Tower etc.

 Jul 5 Exit 38 & Mt. Si w. Alex Cronin (1d)  Climbed a few sport climbs on N. side of I-90 and then ran-walked Mt. Si in < 1.5hrs (no packs).

 Jul 11,12 w. Eli Holmes (2d)  Methow Inspiration 4p 5.8 w. 20' of 5.9,  Two slabby pitches followed by two steeper pitches.  Scrambled up Last Chance on Sunday and scoped out some climbing possibilities.

 Jul 18 Darrington w. Dave Lahaye, Eli & Karel (1d) climbed first three pitches of Giants Tears (5.10R A0)   DL attempted first two leads and retreated after long contemplation.  Didn't finish the climb due to the late hour – dangit – someday I’ll complete this bastard.  This climb should have a few bolts replaced  - potential for death fall on p1 rivets.  Eli & Karel were on Dreamer .

Jul 25 & 26 Rainier w. Alex Cronin (2d) visited mom & then began climbing in the evening.  Climbed Kautz Glacier Route in under 23 hrs.   Decended in mid-afternoon w. much ice and rockfall down the chute at camp hazard.  Used Diamox for the first time with semi-positive results.   Felt queasy at 11k before bivy but was much improved by mid morning and had lots of energy above 14k.

Aug 2 Dragontail, solo (1d)  approached via Stuart Lake trailhead, climbed Serpentine Ridge onsight and exited via Snow Creek.  Made summit in < 5hrs.  Had to hike to bridge creek but got a hitch from there. 

Aug 15,16 Squamish w. Jill & Dave Lahaye  (2d) Hiked to Black Tusk on Sat and climbed Sparrow (8p 5.9 slab) on Sunday, finishing just before rain started.

Aug 22,23 Ingalls Lake & Peak w. Mom, Jill and Alex Cronin (2d) Hiked in & camped on Sat.  On Sun., hiked to lake w. group and then w. Alex soloed up SE. face of N. peak, traversed S. and descended S. face of S. peak (both peaks were sub peaks of the larger real summit to the S. which looked like a talus scramble.)  I believe we descended the classic route in the Nelson guide as there were several parties on it.

Sep 12, 13 Leavenworth and Enchantments with AC & Rob Meshew (2d)  Climbed Castle Rock (again) on Sat. to practice 3-climber technique w. third member on jumars or self-belay.  Smut-Brass Balls-Damnation.  Led smut, AC led BB and Angel and I finished on the usual slab.  Self belayed the thin face between Angel and Damnation, eventually retreating into Damnation at about 40'.  Starting at ~3am on Sunday, approached Prusik from Stuart Lake trailhead in 5+ hrs, climbed s. face in 5 long pitches, incl. alt. 5.10 entry rt. of std. start.  Last pitch (crux) was very easy compared to the 5.9 OW which was very strenuous but well protected.    One of the best views ever.  Returned to the car at Stuart Lake trailhead by dark.  leads: AC 10, M 9, M 8, AC 9+, M 9

Sep 20  Exit 38 w. AC (1d) 6 sport climbs in 5.10+ range (local grades up to 5.12)

Sep 27 Jackson Wilderness w. Rob Meshew (1d)  Vesper N. Face (3p 5.8+ wet, mossy, poor pro & very loose)  We climbed the face to the left of the Nelson guide classic route.  Excellent views from the summit and scenic hike in.  Took an early left up a steep creek bed and had to retreat to main trail.

Oct 4   Tiger Mt. hike w. Alex, Zander & Megan  --  damp (1d)

Oct 11      Tooth W. Face w. Alex & Erin. (1d)  Wet, snowy & loose.  Bursts up to 5.8 - skipped steep 5.9+ section.

Oct 18      Vantage w. Rob Meshew (1d) climbed a 5.8 and 5 or 6 5.10s including at least two gear routes in the sunshine area.  Also climbed a loose 5.10 on a small outcropping near the road - W or NW facing dihedral.

Oct 24 Granite Mt. w. Jill (1d)  Excellent training hike (~3.5+k ft) with good views down avalanche chute to I-90.  Some snow near top, lookout locked, nasty blisters, ended hike in rain and had breakfast at Snoqualmie summit - yuck.

Oct 25 Snow Creek Wall w. Tom  Coe. (1d) Tried to do Hyperspace again and was thwarted by time.  Climbed 5.10d slab/crack to tree ledge, 5.11a right leaning crack to small roof, 5.9+ cracks (1.5 pitches) and 5.10c onto easy knob runout  to meet up w. outer space.  finished at dusk and made it to the base by dark.  Rescued benighted couple in the talus.

1999

Chair peak N. Face w. Alex Cronin – ropeless.  Crux was getting over the small ‘schrund.

Missing records this year.  Probably did Centerfold at Index around this time.  Pretty busy in startup land though.

2000

Late winter – w. Rob & Jesse – Mt. Baker Coleman Glacier - snowboard descent (solo)

Spring w. Jonathan Fisher – failed attempt on E. Coulouir of Cutthroat – too warm

Spring w. Jill – Camp Muir w. board descent down Nisqually (solo)

July? w. Tom Coe – Ice Cliff Glacier & Girth pillar on Mt. Stuart, Alpine light – benighted on Mountaineers creek bushwack on exit.  Leader aided two pitches but the second managed to free w/o falls.

Summer w. Rob Meshew – 3 o’clock rock,  3 excellent multi-pitch routes including  Silent Running and Total Soul.

September w. Tom Coe – Mt. Triumph (E. Ridge?) Alpine light – planned on N. Face but approach & logistics didn’t look right.  Excellent view.  Very fast ascent – simulcimbed up and down.

Early winter w. Rob Meshew – Vantage – the feathers – about 5x 5.10 climbs.

Early winter w. Rob Meshew - E. Buttress of Chair peak , Mixed snow and rock.  One short steep ice section and some steep snow wallowing at the top.

Summer, Rob Meshew, Dragontail Backbone ridge – caught in snowstorm, traversed and ascended hidden to third coulouir.  3 or 4 pitches of exciting mixed climbing with a single axe and no crampons culminating in a 30’ fall.  Mini-epic but may it back to the car before midnight.

2001

Feb. w. Rob Meshew Pinnacle peak backcountry boarding – two runs

Mar. w. Rob Meshew Camp Muir board descent (left line back to Paradise)

July w. Rob Meshew, Gunsight, Dome, FA Snow Dome

August w. Tom Coe & others, Index, Zoom, Ultrabrutal, Cunning Stunt, FA crack with James

August w. Rob Meshew, exit 38+, Mt. Washington clip-ups

Sept?  w. John Stordahl and Tom Coe, Index,  Sisou (missed last pitch)

2002

Jan? w. Joachim, Attempt on Mt. Adams, gear failure on J’s newly split board

March? w. Alan Diercks, 3 laps on Mt. Si in 8 hrs (2/3 snow + slush)

March? w. Rob, Mt. St. Helens w. snowboard descent

April w. Rob, Leavenworth, Condor buttress (methamphetamine…) Bathtub dome.  Grid bolted trad climb.

May w. Tom Coe, Index, Sugar Bear-Roger’s Corner-breakfast of champions-beak beak beak

May w. Rob, Jesse, Karl, Orlando and Dave, Charlotte Dome, King’s Canyon.  A classic that probably doesn’t see a crowd like this often.

Wish List:

Rock climbs – Grand Wall & Roman Chimney’s, Freeway, Japanese Gardens, Forbidden (solo), Slesse, Liberty crack

Alpine – Liberty or Ptarmigan Ridge, Greybeard, Colonial, New York Gully, Snowboard Rainier, Adams & Glacier

Backcountry – Adams, Rainier, Glacier, Hood